George Town

Nurse_SharkTwo weeks after our first Bahamas landfall, we’ve made it to George Town on Great Exuma Island, Bahamas. Apparently it takes more than two weeks for the senses to adjust to waking up everyday in paradise, for we haven’t yet made the adjustment. I hope we don’t get too spoiled to it because I don’t know how we’d beat it. We made the 38 mile offshore run to George Town today from Galliot Cut. While anchored there last night, I caught a 4 foot nurse shark off a 5 ExumaSound_Dolphin_1inch bait fish that I caught during the day off a 5 inch lure. (That should improve the gene pool for the stupid 5 inch fish species). It was an experience getting the shark off the hook to throw him back, but we finally succeeded. We got a keeper today when I landed a 39.5 inch dolphin (mahi mahi, not Flipper). He’s all filleted and in the freezer waiting to be grilled.

We’re trying hard to adjust … I think we’ll eventually do it.

David and Claudia

Greetings From The Bahamas

That’s right, we finally made it. We left Kemah Nov. 3 and with 1458 nautical miles under our keel (1678 landlubber miles) we’ve arrived at a destination worthy of our efforts. We left Boot Key Harbor Saturday morning at 11 am, hopeful that the light easterly winds forecast for that night would, indeed, materialize. They were blowing 15-20 knots when we left so we had bailout plans for Long Key or Rodriguez Key if they didn’t. Not only did the wind cooperate (we wanted ’em light because our heading was ENE) but the seas were a calm 2-3 ft, even across the Gulf Stream! The next morning, Banks_VastSwimmingPool4after 116 miles at 0830, we crossed onto the Great Bahama Banks at South Riding Rock. It is amazing to go from over 2000 feet of depth to 20 ft in such a short distance! Calm wind and calm sea made for one incredible experience here. For the next 40 miles we were motor-sailing in a vast swimming pool. The pictures we took do not do it justice.

We have 3 fuel filters for our engine; a primary, secondary and the third one (I don’t know what you’d call that). Anyway, the third one hadn’t been changed since Texas and it announced that it was overdue 3/4 of the way across the Gulf Steam. The engine didn’t die, but every 23 minutes it would race, then begin to stall, then recover. I got a new filter, the required wrench, bucket and rags out ready to do the change out if it actually died, but thankfully that never happened (thanks to our electric fuel pump, Emeril, who kicked it up a notch and pushed the fuel on thru). However, lacking full power we failed to get across the banks before dark so we anchored for the night 2 miles south of the Russel light buoy.

Banks_DivingOnAnchorAnchoring in these Bahamian tidal currents requires skills that we don’t have yet, but we finally got it down. The party was over at 11pm when the 20 knot winds kicked in. I tied on a 2nd snubber to the anchor chain and we moved to the cockpit to “sleep”. Morning revealed that the hobby-horsing the boat did all night in the chop had nearly chafed the first snubber line thru. With first light it was time to get off the banks! The new fuel filters (I went ahead and changed ’em all) cured the engine’s woes and with double-reefed mainsail we beat our way across the remaining 14 miles of banks. Over the banks and into the deep water of “The Tongue of the Ocean” brought 25 knot winds and 5-6 ft seas which would have made for a fast sail to Chub Cay (14 more miles) if they weren’t just off the nose. Things calmed down a bit once in the lee of the Berry Islands and we finally made our first landfall and cleared into the Bahamas at Chub Cay Club marina.

Wow!

David and Claudia

The Florida Keys

We’re still at Boot Key Harbor waiting for the arrival of our forwarded mail. We’ve got our route to the Bahamas planned and will head out after our mail and a favorable forecast arrives.

As it turned out, we were put back in the water a bit too soon after our haul out to re-bed the rudder post’s packing gland. The caulk hadn’t cured and we continued to have a small leak. The yard hauled us again and re-did the job, leaving us in the travel lift overnight (not a new experience; we got to do that in Lake Charles when the cutlass bearing was replaced) with heat lamps on the work to expedite the cure. We must have bonded well with the guys at the shipyard. Before we left, they brought us some shark and grouper fillets. John even gave us a recipe for the shark. We tried that out our first night here and it was GREAT! Claudia is fixing the grouper tonight with a recipe out of the Bahamas Cruising Guide.

While at Ft. Myers, I had a local autopilot guru, Heinz Buhrig of Heinz AutoPilots, Inc., come and evaluate our installation since we’d had it redone. Along with his blessing, he gave us the latest software upgrade (no charge because we’re still under warranty). Wednesday, after recalibrating its electronic compass and other sea trial settings, we were on our way to Key West, 102 nautical miles due south. Seas were 1-2 feet (good news), winds were calm, 5-10 knots (bad news) and were from the northwest (just wish there was more of it) so we motor-sailed, making very good time. At 0320 next morning, the northeast wind picked up just a bit so we shut down the engine to slow down enough to make landfall after sunup. It is still so cool to watch the GPS (Millie) and autopilot (Otto) work their magic, bringing us up to the northwest channel buoy waypoint and then rounding it to make our next waypoint.

As mentioned previously, since we arrived at Key West so early, since we’ve “done” Key West before and since the anchorage didn’t look that protected, we decided to continue on to Boot Key. I programmed in the new waypoints and we changed course. We never touched the wheel until we got to the Boot Key Harbor channel markers (156 nautical miles, 11 waypoints later).

Marathon_Maalahi1Maybe it’s because we’ve been through so much just getting here, but this place seems to have been maligned. We’ve read and heard how over-crowded and polluted this place is but we haven’t seen that. The cruising boats far, far outnumber the derelict boats. We found a great spot to anchor and the water is the best we’ve parked in yet. By the way, the weather is perfect. While dinghy-ing around, we found some manatees. Took pictures, petted them and gave them fresh water to drink. Never did that in Kemah! We paid $15 to a local marina (Sombrero Marina) for a week’s dinghy docking privileges which includes trash disposal, bike racks and receiving mail. It’s walking distance to Publix grocery, K-Mart, Eckerd’s and Home Depot. We’ll be ready to go when our mail gets here, but it’s a nice place to have to wait for it!

See you in the Bahamas,

David and Claudia

Now We’re Cruising

Greetings from Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, Florida. We left Ft. Myers Beach Wednesday morning and headed for Key West. We arrived at Key West about 7:45 AM and decided we didn’t need anything in Key West so we changed course and made it on down to Marathon. We secured the anchors at 3:30 PM this afternoon in Boot Key Harbor. We’ll wait for good weather and head to the Bahamas from here. More later, after I’ve had some sleep and can compose the details.

David and Claudia

Dry Tortugas

Well, I thought we’d be sending this message from the Dry Tortugas, but once again we’ve maintained our flexibility and rolled with the punches. When we left Sarasota we headed down to Venice which was only 15 miles away. The offshore forecast had seas 5-7 feet so we decided to give it one more day and we continued down to Boca Grande. We anchored off of Useppa Island in Pine Island Sound (thanks for the tip, Raf). When we arrived, there was a sailboat hard aground trying to kedge off. Another cruiser had gone over in their dingy to help but to no avail, so we lowered ours and headed over to lend a hand. They were very glad to see our 15hp which did help make the difference and they were soon back in deep water. Since we had the dingy down we took off after the many dolphins swimming and feeding in the area. This appears to be a very beautiful cruising area and I’m sure we saw just a glimpse of what exists. I’d recommend a boat with a much shallower draft and no masts to really cruise Florida’s west coast.

Anyway, we were off early the next morning, another perfect sailing day, heading for the Dry Tortugas 122 miles to the SSE. We were 20 miles closer to our destination when I decided it would be a good idea to inspect the autopilot’s belowdecks behavior since it’s recent refit (and due to the fact that it makes noises that we normally don’t hear with the engine running). Otto was doing a marvelous job, but I noticed the bolts on the steering quadrant had loosened up. After retightening them my attention became focused on the leak around the base of the rudder post’s packing gland. It had been there awhile but was so small that I had hoped to deal with it at our next haulout in another year or two. However, watching the small amount of water come in with every stroke of the autopilot’s ram and the realization that we were heading to relatively remote areas and that real, nominally priced boat facilities were only 20 miles away, we decided to abort and changed course to San Carlos Bay and the anchorage and shipyards at Ft. Myers Beach.

FtMyers_RaisingWaterline6The yard we selected is Gulf Marine Ways and Supply. Our boat looked tiny sitting in their 150 ton travel lift! We took advantage of this yard time and did what many cruisers eventually must do … raise the waterline. Lee, the yard manager, even gave me the bottom paint and brushes to do the job! The next morning I dismantled the autopilot ram and tiller arm and the steering quadrant (I’ve done this way too many times now) and John quickly unbolted the packing gland and freed it from the hull. He took that over to the shop to clean it up while I cleaned the inside of the hull for its rebedding. There are 4 bolts that hold it in place but I found 5 bolt holes plus an additional large void that had simply been filled with chalk which in almost 20 years had become quite saturated and no longer kept the water out. We filled the voids with epoxy and rebedded and repacked the packing gland.

We’re back in the water and are making new plans to leave here and head straight for Key West, 102 miles due south, but as usual with us, don’t hold your breath. We’ll continue to go with the flow and enjoy wherever it is we wake up to each day and just maybe, someday, that will be somewhere we actually planned to be.

Later,

David and Claudia

Moving Again

I am happy to report that we’re finally under way again. We are currently at anchor with a beautiful view of downtown Sarasota. Sarasota_Anchorage1Tomorrow or the next day we’ll head offshore from Venice to the Dry Tortugas (weather forecast permitting). We finally got to use the water maker today and it works great, filling a 6 gal jug in 1 hour. With warmer seawater, it should make 8-9 gal/hr. This past Friday we enjoyed a visit from a friend we met while in Gulfport. Raf and Linda have cruised Florida’s west coast and the Bahamas and have given us a lot of good information. Raf was in the Tampa area for business and came by for a visit.

We haven’t heard from some of you in a very long time (you know who you are). We’d sure like an update or a howdy from you sometime. That’s all for now, keep in touch.

David and Claudia

New Plans

Greetings from St. Pete, Fl. This message is being forwarded to you from our son, Jim, who is acting as our Postmaster for these broadcast messages. The distribution list is getting longer and with the connection problems we’re having with email it’s getting hard just to get the email list transmitted. PLEASE CONTINUE TO SEND EMAIL DIRECTLY TO US AT wcw5564@sailmail.com.

Okay, now for our new plans. We’re going to leave St. Pete around the 2nd week of Feb. and head to Sarasota and Venice, then jump offshore to The Dry Tortugas. From there we’ll sail to The Keys and then cross the Gulf Stream to The Bahamas. We hope to have a leisurely cruise down The Exumas and eventually get down to The Virgin Islands. It sure is great not having a schedule or even having to stick to our own plans.

We’ll keep you updated as we are able to get connected.

David and Claudia

Warm and Sunny

We finally made it to Clearwater, Fl (Woo-hoo!). We left Apalach Clearwater_David1early Monday morning and had an incredible offshore sail for the next 28 hours. It’s shorts and tee shirts weather again…what a relief. We’re gonna stay in this area awhile in order to take care of some maintenance items on the boat and decide where we’ll go next. We’ll let you know when we figure it out!

David and Claudia

At Sea … At Last

Sunset_at_SeaWe finally got to venture out offshore. Last night, while you slept, we motor-sailed about 100 nm from Pensacola to Port St. Joe. We’re currently anchored in a quite lovely swamp halfway between Port St. Joe and Apalachicola. We’ll get to Apalach tomorrow and wait for another weather window for our next leg to Clearwater. All systems are working wonderfully well; what a change from a few weeks ago! More later.
David and Claudia
1/7/99 1840 EST

Update:
We’re in Apalachicola waiting for cold front to pass thru this weekend. Email getting difficult to get connected.
1/9/99 0645 EST

Going Again

We can see Florida from here but it’s cold, COLD, COLD! We spent almost a week at Fowl River Marina near Mobile. It was only $7.50 a TopOfMast1night (going rate has been about $22) and we got to spend a little time with 2 grandkids and their mother, watch the fireworks and wait out the cold front and associated severe weather. The weather never got bad where we were…just a little rain one day and then COLD. We decided to leave today for our jumping off point where we’ll wait for a good weather window to head offshore for Port St. Joe, Fl. With the wind out of the north we might have been left land-locked in that marina until the tide was allowed back in. We had planned to anchor in Ingram Bayou but with the temp. dropping into the mid to low twenties, we opted for another marina for at least tonight. The spray from the rough chop on Mobile Bay turned to ice on the toerail, deck and dingy this morning; a sight and experience that we wish never to repeat! Couldn’t get connected to email for the past few days…some kinda interference at the marina, but I hope to get this one out tonight.

Later,

David and Claudia