Trini Update

Greetings, everyone.

We’ve been in Trinidad now for 3 weeks, plenty of time to have a good quantity of “sea growth” on the anchor chain and snubbers. We’ve made pitifully poor progress on all our boat projects, but have adapted to the social routines and goings on here quite rapidly. We’ve attended Sunday church services with Doug and LuAnn from “Whisper”, gone to Wednesday movie nights with Peter and Karen from “Tanee” here at TTYA (Trinidad & Tobago Yachting Association (more on that later)), killed lots of time playing “Mexican Train” (a domino game played with double 12’s), had Thanksgiving dinner Thanksgiving_Bob_Susan_Turkeywith Bob and Susan and 3 other couples aboard “Sunrise” (complete with turkey, cornbread dressing, cranberries, candied yams and bananas, pumpkin custard (explanation to follow) and a lot more, sampled the Food Courts at 3 different shopping malls (Long Circular Mall, West Mall and Excellent City Centre) and Claudia has completed 3 shopping trips for the incredible variety and low prices of the many fabric shops in downtown Port Of Spain (in spite of the fact that she HATES to sew (the prices are that good)). We’ve had pizza at Joe’s Pizza (twice), bacon cheeseburgers at The Lighthouse (twice), all-you-can-eat shrimp at MOBs and fried chicken at KFC (yep, Kentucky Fried Chicken). We even discovered a specialty store at West Mall called Peppercorn’s that sells Pace Thick & Chunky Picante Sauce (mild, medium and hot) and TORTILLA CHIPS!!!! Since we’ve successfully made our own fresh tortillas (both flour and corn) we have determined that from the eating point of view there is no reason to ever leave here. However, there are other points of view to consider so we have not yet applied for residency.

As I mentioned earlier, we are anchored at the Trinidad & Tobago TTYA_Dinghy_DockYachting Association. This is the best anchorage in Trinidad and we pay a monthly fee to use their dinghy dock, water, garbage disposal and other facilities. It’s within walking distance of Chaguaramas where most of the marinas, restaurants, shipyards, chandleries and a couple of small grocery stores are. The TTYA phone number is (868) 634-4519 and their fax number is (868) 634-4376 in case you need to contact us faster than I check email.

We did have a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. “Sunrise” roasted the turkey, made the dressing and hosted all 10 of us. Claudia has perfected her Amaretto-peach cheesecake (via the pressure-cooker) so she made another one of those plus experimented, quite successfully, with a recipe for the yam and banana thing. She offered to make pumpkin pies before we realized that we couldn’t find any frozen pie shells here. As she anguished about making pie crusts, I found her a recipe for a pumpkin custard and another recipe for individual shells made from flour tortillas sprinkled with sugar & cinnamon. Topped them with some crushed walnut pieces and a little whipped cream and finished off the Thanksgiving dinner quite nicely.

The weather here has been interesting. This is the rainy season here in Trinidad, but when Hurricane Lenny swept through the Caribbean he sucked up all the moisture and we had very little rain for several days. Things changed back to normal late last week, though, and we’ve had several Texas-style thunderstorms in the past few days, including a tornado that touched down and did some damage in downtown Port Of Spain. When it doesn’t rain it gets pretty warm during the day (not like Texas in July, that’s why I said “warm” not “hot”) but it always cools off nicely when the sun goes down. Speaking of Lenny, it is very unfortunate to have such a late-season storm in the Caribbean. Several boats that we’ve shared anchorages with along the way departed Grenada and Trinidad early in November heading back up island only to run headlong into Lenny. We’ve heard reports of several boats that were lost in St. Martin and in St. Croix; some that were still in Trinidad when we arrived but got too anxious or had commitments to get back north too soon. It’s a lesson we’re glad to not have to learn the hard way … it ain’t over till it’s over and Trinidad is a great place to be until it’s over. There has been a great deal of damage to all of the islands from St. Martin all the way down to even Grenada. Even though the hurricane itself didn’t come close to most of these islands, Lenny changed the normal wind direction from east to west all the way down the island chain. This caused very large ocean swells, up to 20 ft., to break on the west coasts (normally the leeward side), washing away roads, docks and other coastal facilities which are normally on the protected side of the islands. I’m sure this will weigh into our decisions on where we’ll spend time once we do leave Trinidad.

We were very happy to receive visitors last week. Randy Hummel, a friend and business associate for many years, and his friend Lonie and his parents are visiting Trinidad & Tobago. We corresponded via email and arranged for them to come out to TTYA and spend some time with us. We shared a few beers aboard “Ma’alahi”, went to Chaguaramas for dinner and then back to TTYA. The next morning I was amazed at how quickly that afternoon and evening had passed. We sure do like having visitors from back home. Hopefully, we’ll see more of you soon. There’s nothing like hearing the latest goings on from the old work place that makes one feel the joy of retirement all over again! Randy even brought us a beautiful set of double 12 dominoes, a late request from us, and they were the envy of the whole crowd when we played Saturday night. Thanks again, Randy!

Since I’m using an internet connection to send and receive email via Hotmail instead of using the radio via Sailmail, you can probably see that messages can be quite lengthy. That works both ways, you know. While we’re here in Trinidad we can handle more frequent and lengthy messages from you than when we’re limited to those short, text Sailmail ones. Still, please, no jokes, virus warning hoaxes or other internet chain letters (I still have to rent internet time) but it would sure be good for us to get to keep up with what’s going on in your world, too.

That’s it for now. When it quits raining, I’m going to head over to Chaguaramas and line up somebody to give us a quote on laying down that teak floor in the galley. Hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving, too.

David and Claudia

Trinidad Goings On

TTYA_AnchorageWe’ve been here 5 days and it is easy to see why so many cruisers come here for a couple of months and stay for years (we continue to plan on being exceptions to that rule). It’s not the beaches or the water that’s the attraction; the water looks very much like Galveston Bay and the beaches are not nearby. But the people are the friendliest in the world, the boating services and facilities are many and the living costs for us are very inexpensive. It is amazing to sail into another country so far from home and know so many people when you arrive. Our friends Al and Runa who have been down here for about 6 years aren’t here (they are still in Sweden due to the illness of Runa’s mother) but other friends that we met when we were here 4 years ago are here in addition to almost everyone we’ve met on the way down.

Every Friday morning, one of the large grocery stores in Port Of Spain arranges for free transportation to and from their store for the “yachties”. We were picked up by the “Maxi Taxi” at 8:30 and returned by 11:00 with our 12 bags of groceries. We found everything we were looking for except tortillas, so we’ll be making use of the tortilla press we brought back from the US.

Mood_Indigo_2Tonight we’re going to the “Mood Indigo” concert. This is a well-known jazz band made up of cruisers that have been playing together for several years. We’ve heard of them but have not yet heard them. Everyone has mentioned the concert to us so I’m sure there’s going to be a big crowd.

One of the reason’s so many boat projects get done here is that the teak wood is so CHEAP. It actually grows on trees here. We’re going to have the cabin sole in the galley redone. I removed the rotten floor in there a few years ago and we’ve been living with the plywood look for too long. Everything is so inexpensive here that the running joke is that you’ll go broke saving money. We’re well on our way.

Well, that’s the update for now. Keep in touch.

David and Claudia
11/13/99

Update 11/16/99:
The Mood Indigo concert was unbelievably GREAT! We’re sure staying busy here. Today is laundry day for us so I sneaked off to the internet cafe to get these emails out. Radio propagation hasn’t been real good down here but this works very well. Continue to send emails to the sailmail account, though, because we can get them via the internet and hotmail also.

We Are in Trinidad

This is just a short note to let everyone know that we left Grenada on Monday night, Nov. 8 and had a great sail down to Trinidad, arriving the next morning. Everyone we’ve met on the way down island is here (just about) and we’ve been very busy getting around to see them all (haven’t accomplished it all yet). I’ll write a longer note soon detailing all that goes on here.

David and Claudia

Back in the Water

After a 4 hour mechanical delay in Miami, we arrived back in Grenada about half past midnight in the early morning of Nov 1. Our pre-arranged taxi-man, Darrius, was there at the Grenada airport waiting for us, thank goodness! But it was too late and there had been too much rain the past 2 days for him to be able to take us to the the boatyard where our boat was in dry-dock (its a mile down a private, unmaintained road that’s very difficult in the mud). So he found us a reasonable deal on a room in a small hotel in Grand Anse and our first night back aboard Ma’alahi was delayed another day. This turned out to be a good thing for 2 reasons. The first was that the hotel is very near a grocery store and we were able to pick up a few items for the next few days while in the yard getting the bottom done and there are no stores or anything else for miles around this new, still-under-construction boatyard. Also, the boat needed some airing out and cleaning up before habitation and that wouldn’t have been much fun at 2 in the morning.

Next morning we did arrive to find Ma’alahi right where we left her 2 months prior and in spite of a strong musty smell and a little mildew here and there in much better condition than we expected. We got busy putting things back in order and scheduled the bottom painting to start the next day. Wednesday, Nov. 3 we celebrated our 1 year cruising anniversary with cheeseburgers and french fries over at the yard’s snack bar. It was mighty fine.

Today, Friday Nov. 5, we got back in the water and in spite of the rainy clouds, strong wind and high waves, immediately headed back to Mt. Hartman Bay. This place was jam-packed with boats when we left at the end of August and now there’s only a few. They’ve all either gone on down to Trinidad and/or Venezuela or started back up island. We’ll hang around just a few days re-checking all systems and waiting for weather before heading on down to Trinidad ourselves.

It was good to go back and visit with everyone that we could, but it’s GREAT to be home and cruising again!

See you in Trinidad,

David and Claudia