Land Ho!

AllansCays_TopOMast1Five days and two hours after raising anchor at Puerto Rico, it was splashed again but this time in the clean, clear and blue water of San Salvador in the Bahamas. It was here, purportedly, that Columbus discovered the New World on October 12, 1492. He couldn’t have picked a nicer spot!  Our passage was less significant but more enjoyable I’m sure. We ran our engine when the wind died, knew where we were going and, therefore, took the direct route, let our autopilot do all the steering, made fresh water from sea water, stayed in contact with friends and family via email and radio, were informed of weather conditions 24 to 48 hours in advance of it’s occurrence, and never once feared sailing off the edge of the earth! All in all it was a long but easy passage. “Long” is such a relative term. While we were under way we received an email from Rick and Mary on TRANQUILLITY, announcing their arrival in the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific after their 21-day passage from the Galapagos. Their description of French Polynesia suggests that it is well worth the effort of getting there. Check out their adventures at http://www.tranquillity.net. We are looking forward to checking out Rum Cay and Long Island in the next few days, as we sailed past them the last time we were here, but we’re especially looking forward to revisiting Conception Island, a mere 35 miles from our present location, it being our very favorite Bahamas island. It is there that we will transplant our palm tree that we’ve raised from a coconut picked up in Bequia over a year ago. Although we left the Caribbean back in Puerto Rico and then sailed out of the tropics yesterday when we crossed north of the Tropic of Cancer, we still have a few weeks left of cruising the Bahamas, some of the best cruising and definitely the prettiest water we’ve seen, before making the west coast of Florida the first part of July. Please drop us a note and fill us in on your goings-on, too!

Regards,

David and Claudia
aboard MA’ALAHI
5/25/2001

Under Way

SUNDAY 1100 AST MAY 20

We finally left Puerto Rico, Saturday morning, after waiting there about a week, first to help get Runa from RUNAL on an airplane home to Sweden to be with her family and terminally ill mother (she passed away a week after Runa arrived) and then for Al’s brother to arrive to help him sail RUNAL on back to Florida. We’re 24 hours out of Puerto Rico and our current position is 19 degrees 37 minutes north and 067 degrees 18 minutes west, heading 308 degrees magnetic on a rhumbline to San Salvador, 489 nautical miles distant. We’re making 5 – 6 knots with the wind right on the stern which makes life a little rolly but it’s a lot easier going than beating into the wind, waves and current! We hope to arrive in the Bahamas Thursday morning and are looking forward to spending a little time there before sailing on to Florida toward the end of June. I’ll keep this short since we have to turn off the autopilot to transmit on the radio (and we’re quite spoiled to not having to hand steer!).

Later,
David and Claudia

MONDAY 1050 AST MAY 21

Well, I never got around to getting this sent out yesterday so here’s a brief update: Our current position is 20 deg. 43 min. N, 069 deg. 03 min. W. Sailing along at 4.5 – 5 knots but the forecast is for the winds to decrease to only 10 knots Tuesday night so we’ll be doing a lot of motoring before we get in.

D & C

Alive and Well Aboard Ma’alahi

A question for you:

Which of the following excuses is the biggest reason we have not written in such a long time?

a) We’ve been too busy having fun
b) We’ve been too busy with boat projects
c) We’ve settled into such a routine that we just don’t think about it
d) I’m just too lazy
e) The computer has been broken
f) ALL OF THE ABOVE

(in my best gameshow host voice): Well, if you guessed “f, all of the above” then YOU’RE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT!!!!

Even though we’ve been in the Virgin Islands since mid-December, we’ve moved around a lot … never more than one week at any anchorage at one time. We’ve done two tours of St. Croix, spent lots of time in St. Thomas and explored parts of St. John that we’d missed before. We’ve spent big bucks fixing and replacing broken boat parts, including the transmission, dinghy, autopilot and refrigerator; discovered and hung out in our newest favorite St. John anchorage,P0001894 Hurricane Hole; got visits from friends Randy and Lonie, Mike and Cynthia, and my brother Gary and sister-in-law Vanessa, read lots of books and learned a lot more about the world of amateur radio.

And, yes, the computer was out of commission for awhile when the keyboard finally succumbed to corrosion from the marine environment. But after disabling the notebook’s keyboard and adding an external one, it’s working ALMOST normal again (I just have to choose whether I want to use the mouse or the keyboard). Anyway, this will be an attempt to bring you up-to-date with our goings-on.

P0001921The first thing you should know is that we left the Virgin Islands this past Friday when we sailed over to Isla de Culebra, one of Puerto Rico’s eastern islands. We hope to be here just long enough for a weather window to open up for us to make the 640 nautical mile passage up to San Salvador in the Bahamas. However, there is a very nasty low pressure system and gale centered just north of that location and it’s taking it’s sweet time moving on out. I’m downloading weather faxes and reports frequently looking for a break; hopefully we’ll get to leave here Wednesday morning and are looking forward to the 4 – 5 day passage out into the Atlantic.

Way, way back on the 3rd of March, Randy and Lonie came sailing in P0001867to St. Thomas on a cruise ship. We picked them up and went for a short sail before dropping anchor in Honeymoon Bay on Water Island where we managed to grab a table in the shade on the loveliest beach around just before the day-charter barge KON TIKI showed up, dropping off their 100 or so guests. After a late lunch back onboard Ma’alahi and the strange disappearance of a great number of bottles of beer, we managed to race back to Long Bay and deposit R & L on the cruise ship dock just in time for them to make the gangway before it was stowed.

P0001890A couple of weeks later Mike and Cynthia flew in for a week’s visit. We didn’t waste any time taking them to our newly discovered Hurricane Hole near Coral Bay, St. John. We swam and snorkeled and spotted many birds. Then we thought it would be good to take them to a favorite little funky bar-restaurant, Skinny Legs, for a quiet Sunday late-afternoon cheeseburger. WRONG DAY! We dinghyed over to the sounds of a BIG party going on. There was a live band and people jammed in every corner, both inside and out. I will not EVEN attempt to describe all the bizarre events of that evening but we think we remember that the cheeseburgers were excellent! We made a run to Virgin Gorda, via Peter Island where we enjoyed another exciting episode of “The Charterboat Anchoring Show” which consists of getting to a BVI anchorage that has no moorings early in the afternoon, getting something cold to drink and then watching the show as late-arriving bareboat charterers come in and go through hilarious gyrations in their attempts to set the hook! The next day we sailed on to The Baths at Virgin Gorda. We spent the afternoon with Mike and Cynthia, climbing the giant boulders and making our way to the fabulous Devil’s Bay Beach. Upon returning to the mother ship, we were shocked to discover that in our absence about 30 or more French bareboat charter boats had anchored closely around the frightened Ma’alahi. We quickly made our escape to the overnight anchorage at Spanish Town and next morning fled the BVI. It was a week that went by too fast.

However, two weeks later we swung right back into vacation-mode when Gary and Vanessa arrived for their visit. Things got off to a fast start as we sailed offshore from Water Island heading toward St. John and Gary caught the last two fish in the Virgin Islands. The first was a barracuda who got tossed back after we carefully removed the hooks without losing any fingers. The next one, though, was a definite keeper; a very nice-sized, two-dinners-for-four Wahoo! Actually, there must have been at least a couple more fish in the ocean because Gary almost caught them, too. Problem was, I had just replaced the rusty hooks on a couple of good lures but they turned out to be too puny and these sea monsters bent the hooks straight and slid off! Well, one morning we had an experience that would top any fish story. We were just coming out of the cut in the reef from Cane Garden Bay when Claudia let out a shriek, “Oh my humpback5gosh, it’s a wh-wh-whale!!!” Holy cow! Sure enough, there was a mama humpback and her calf swimming by very close to us and the shore. We turned the boat around and got even closer. Gary was at the bow snapping pictures like crazy and we were all treated to the sight of the adolescent humpback breaching and splashing several times only 150 ft. away! Don’t think we’ll ever top that! I think we came real close to talking G and V into staying with us and helping us sail back to the Bahamas and Florida, but in the end they flew home anyway (sigh).

Claudia has had a good time learning to play the piano. We bought an electronic piano keyboard back in January and she’s teaching herself how with the books we bought with it. It was slow going for awhile but she’s reading music now and readily picking out (guitar term) new songs. I play a little, too, but only by ear. It’s another reason why this email has been so long in coming. Since getting the HAM license I’ve also spent more time with the radio, both on the marine and ham frequencies. It still amazes me that with this little black box and wire antenna and a little power from our batteries that I can talk to so many people in so many far-away places from our little boat in the remotest of anchorages. I talked to a guy in Copenhagen, Denmark one evening, talked with Mary and Rick on TRANQUILITY while they were on passage from Panama to the Galapagos Islands, frequently talk to Andy and Diane on SPIRIT BORNE in Panama’s San Blas Islands, Rosie and Neil on DREAMCATCHER in Columbia and even had a good conversation with Liz on RUMPLETEASER the other night in New York City! I’ve talked to my dad in Texas from his friend’s HAM station a couple of times and have had a couple of really good, long conversations with my friend Elkin, up near Pittsburgh. So, HEY, get a radio and let’s talk!

When the wind and sea conditions finally improve we’ll take off from here and make way to San Salvador. We’ll spend two or three weeks visiting some of the islands in that area before heading over to George Town where our daughter Christina and her family will meet us for a visit before we head on to Florida. We’ll be in touch and start sending position reports along the way via email.

Regards,

David and Claudia
aboard MA’ALAHI