Category Archives: Tobago Cays

Grenadines Update

As suggested in our last email we did enjoy another bounty of lobster and conch before we left Union Island in favor of Petit Saint PSV_Anchorage_7Vincent (PSV). This tiny island is home to a very exclusive and private resort and is surrounded by a huge coral reef. We enjoyed a very quiet and picturesque anchorage there for several days before deciding it was time to head over to the Tobago Cays. Shortly after leaving PSV a rather nice sized tuna attached itself to my little green Magnum lure. Landed and filleted in short order we made a fast decision to change that night’s menu from beans and cornbread to mesquite grilled tuna. “Tanee” had not joined us on this leg so it was up to the crews of “Runal” and “Ma’alahi” to go it alone with the task of eating the fish. With no reinforcements available we were not up to the task, although many gallant efforts were made. However, with the aid of refrigeration the job was completed at the next day’s noon meals aboard both “Runal” and “Ma’alahi”. After a week of snorkeling the beautiful reefs and enjoying one of the premier spots in all the Caribbean we left the Tobago Cays and headed north for Bequia where “Runal’s” mail should be waiting and we would have a close encounter with another tuna. “Runal” got their mail but due to a tactical error upon hooking the fish we crossed over the line and it cut loose. We obviously need more practice.

Although we’ve now been in Bequia for 11 days we haven’t done very much ashore due in part to the fact that we were here in July and saw most of it then and that the weather has been quite windy and occasionally squally. One day, though, we all took a hike over theHope_Beach_Claudia_Al_Runa mountain to Hope Beach. The hike was straight up and straight down but we were treated to a fantastic beach lined by an enormous stand of coconut palms. With our machetes we hacked open greens ones to drink the coconut water and hacked the nuts out of the brown ones for the meat. We’ve been snacking on fresh coconut every day since and we’ve made an interesting discovery: Miss Augie LOVES coconut! This crazy dog very seldom begs for food (it’s usually Claudia begging her to eat) but she’s made a big exception for coconut.

Well, we’ve been patiently waiting for a break in the weather in order to get to sail north up to Martinique but the strong trade winds have been blowing stronger every day out of the northeast and the seas have been building as well. The high pressure system up in the Atlantic that has caused all this is now finally starting to move east and should be replaced by a low coming off the U.S. east coast in the next day or two which should calm the winds a bit and bring an easterly or east-southeasterly flow. We’re getting ready to take advantage of it and hope to clear out of Saint Vincent on Wednesday and head north. We’ll send another update from France. In the meantime, how about letting us hear from YOU!

David and Claudia

Getting There

Hello again.
In our last episode we planned to site-see in St. Lucia before continuing south, and we did. We did an all day touristy bus-tour of the island, seeing banana Ma'alahiBequiaplantations, fishing villages, rain forests, the famed Pitons and many other breath-taking scenes. We were impressed by the beauty of the country and the friendliness of its people.

From there we had a wonderful day sail to the island of Bequia, just south of and a part of St. Vincent, yet another beautiful tropical island with sparkling waters and friendly people. Here we visited Athneal Olivierre’s whaling museum. Athneal is 78 and with special international permission AthnealOlivierre_Museum_4still hunts whales in open boats with harpoons (he’s allowed 2 per year). He is actually quite famous for killing a 48-foot humpback with a single harpoon thrust several years back; a most interesting man to talk to.

On the 23rd of July we left Bequia and sailed (we’re getting quite accustomed to sailing the boat without running the engine now) to the small island of Mayreau, still part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. SaltWhistleBay_Maalahi_1Another couple of days soaking in the tropical beauty there and we sailed the 4 miles over to the Tobago Cays, arguably the premier spot in the entire Caribbean. Four tiny, uninhabited islands behind the protection of the huge Horseshoe Reef make up this national park. The water is clear, the beaches are white and the snorkeling is superb. We’ll be back!

We left the Tobago Cays this morning after 3 much-too-short days, cleared out of St. Vincent at Union Island and cleared into Grenada at Hillsboro, Carriacou. We’re currently at anchor behind a little spit of sand named, interestingly, Sandy Island. We sail in the morning for the south coast of Grenada, just short of 40 miles away. That will put us safely out of the path of hurricanes. Although we’ve been blessed with an unusually quiet July, as tropical weather is concerned, we are quite relieved, and thankful, to be this far south at this time.

We’ll send another update once we’ve gathered some data in Grenada (that’s kinda poetic, huh, “data in Grenada”?)

David and Claudia