Hood Ornament

Yes, indeed, we’ve made it to Boqueron, Puerto Rico. We waited out the strong trade winds for over a week in Luperon and finally got a break. We cleared out of Luperon with “plans” to go to Samana, 120 miles down the coast and could have tucked in there if the light winds didn’t materialize. MonaPassage_SolaFide_2But they did and we had an incredible trip across the Mona Passage which has a reputation for being brutal. We anchored up in Luperon at 0500 Saturday morning and dropped anchor in Boqueron, P.R. at 1140 Monday morning. Saturday was spent beating and tacking into 15-20 knot winds but things did calm down that night into Sunday. The light easterly winds picked up enough Sunday evening to actually sail (without engine) for some of the way. Continuing on the second night was a first for us. Actually, it is easier to get some sleep when you’re off watch the second night, because you’re so tired from the first night.

We’re back in the USA and will take a taxi to Mayaguez Tuesday morning to clear customs and hit the Wal-Mart there! Our next task will be to traverse the southern coast of Puerto Rico, fighting the strong easterly trades all the way. We’ll stop in Salinas for a few days to reprovision and meet up with Laddie and D.J. from Houston, who will be in P.R. on business. Then it’s on to the Virgin Islands. We’re really gonna make it.

Oh, the hood ornament. Sunday evening, in the Mona Passage just before sunset, a large tern made several approaches at our boat attempting to roost on the spreaders of the main mast. We assumed he was tired and was looking for a place to rest up for the night. All attempts at landing were unsuccessful. He made a few attempts at the mizzen with the same results. Finally, exhausted, he perched himself on the rail of our bow pulpit, tucked his head and slept through several headsail adjustments and the rise and fall of bow over waves. Just before 3 AM, we cut the engine and unfurled the genoa. We figured that that either woke him up or he realized that we were taking him back to Puerto Rico and off he flew!

Buenos noches,

David and Claudia

Republica Dominicana

Buenos dias!
We’ve been in Luperon, Dominican Republic, for the past week. We have fallen in love with this place and it’s people and hope to return some day when we can stay and explore por mucho tiempo. We had such a great weather window to leave the Bahamas that we never checked in at Turks and Caicos; just anchored overnight at Provo and headed across the banks next day, anchored at Big Ambergris Cay then on to Luperon. Instead of the normal headwinds, we had flat seas and light ENE winds for a lovely reach all the way to Luperon. Even had to reef sails to slow down to keep from getting there before daylight. We’ve seen our first (and second) green flash at sunset so we know we’re really in the tropics.

Luperon is a small agricultural village with the best small boat Luperon_ChickenShack_2harbor in all of Hispanola (the island that D.R. and Haiti share). The Spanish speaking locals are very poor, but even more, they are happy and friendly. In town, local transportation is motorcycles. In the country, it’s burros and donkeys. We rented a car for a couple of days with “Sunrise” and drove to Puerto Plata and Santiago to buy provisions and see some of the country. This is a very beautiful country with green mountains and palm trees cohabitating quite nicely. On the 2nd day of our jeep rental, I drove and Bob navigated. On the way back to Luperon, we ended up on a gravel road (very large “gravel” … many would say “rocks”) and forded 3 streams to get back to town. The locals along that stretch probably don’t see many turistas. We did a lot of smiling and waving. Imbert_Falls_2Yesterday, we took a guided tour. The hilight of the tour, in fact of our entire trip so far, was climbing the waterfalls outside of Imbert. I cannot begin to describe this experience. Our group consisted of 3 couples, plus a family of 5 (including their 3 sons ages 5 to 12) (yes, they’re cruising on a sailboat, too). Our able guide, Juaquin, led us up the mountain and across many streams. When we got to the falls, it was unbelievable. There was a rock cliff with a large pool at the base. We swam across the pool to get to the first fall which was climbed with the aid of a stick ladder. Then we entered the first of the rock canyons. We waded and swam upstream to the next fall. Juaquin gave us detailed instructions on the hand and foot holds to use for climbing up through the falls and was there to pull us up by hand at the critical points. There were 7 falls in all, each more spectacular that the previous. This was no walk in the park but what an experience. The trip down was much quicker, sliding down the upper 5 falls. The real interesting part was the last 2 (the first two going up, including the one with the ladder). You couldn’t slide down them … you had to jump. It was especially funny to see the 5 year old doing a cannon-ball off the real tall one!

We received a very high compliment from Juaquin on the way to falls in the van. We were talking and laughing with him and he said, in his best English, that we were “happy people, like Dominicans; not like the Germans”. We are now waiting for the trade winds to calm down enough for us to head out along the north coast to at least Samana. The first day we were in Luperon, we found friends from Houston, Mark and Bunny on “Wild Goose”. They had arrived just the day before from Cuba (small world, eh?). They left the next day for Puerto Rico. They got a weather window to make the whole 250 miles in one jump. I talked to them on the radio after they arrived and they said the Mona Passage was “like a lake”. I hope we can get half the weather they got! Hopefully, the next you hear from us will be from Puerto Rico, too.

Adios,

David and Claudia

Tropical Arrival

We officially made it to the tropics yesterday when we crossed the GeorgeTown_Maalahi_Sailing_2Tropic of Cancer at 23 degrees, 30 minutes latitude. We’re currently anchored at Mayaguana, Bahamas, waiting for the 20-25 knot trade winds to subside and/or back enough to allow us to make it on down to Provo, Turks and Caicos, 45 miles to the SE. From there, we’ll cross the Caicos banks and then its only 80 miles to Luperon, Dominican Republic. We spent 12 days in George Town, exploring several different anchorages with our friends from Houston, Mike and Cynthia, who flew down to stay with us for a week. We’ve hooked up with another cruising boat from our marina in Houston, “Sunrise”, with Bob and Susan aboard. They’re heading to the same places we are and with a very similar time table, so we’re traveling together for now. After leaving George Town April 2, we had a nice ConceptionIsland_3motor-sail over to Conception Island, an unbelievably beautiful, uninhabited, travel-brochure-quality island with the requisite deserted, white-powdery-sand beaches, clear, clear turquoise water and great snorkeling reefs. We spent 3 days hanging out there in very settled weather and then decided to move on down 20 miles to Rum Cay. As we neared Rum Cay, the wind and seas were so cooperative that we decided to take full advantage of the light NE winds and continue on to Mayaguana, 142 miles further to the east and south (the direction of the normal wind conditions). During the night the winds picked up just enough to, get this, actually turn off the engine and sail with just the sail-thingies (a very rare event). Along the way, we caught a wahoo, caught and released a barracuda and caught and lost 3 progressively larger dolphins (mahi mahi). The wahoo is big enough for 3 meals (we’re having the first tonight) but it will be time to replenish some fishing tackle when we get to a provisioning port. Claudia is making the required courtesy flags for each of the countries we’re visiting. She got her sewing machine out the other day to start work on Turks and Caicos and discovered that it had been soaked by salt water, probably the day we were beating down to George Town and the forward hatch had been slightly ajar. Anyway, it appears to be a total loss; the motor and mechanisms have turned to solid rust. She finished the T & C flag today sewing it all by hand. We’ll definitely be looking for a replacement machine! For anyone with access to a Ham or SSB radio, we’re checking in on a cruiser’s net at 0830 EDT nearly every morning. The frequency is 8152.0. They cover a very large area from Texas to New England, the Bahamas, NW Caribbean and E Caribbean, making good use of relays, so if you check in there’s a good chance we’ll make contact.

Well, the wahoo is done and so am I.

David and Claudia

A Fish Tale

A Fish Tale

Our trip from Conception Island to Mayaguana Island started out successfully enough when I caught and landed a good size Wahoo. I didn’t even bother to measure its length or take a picture, but got him filleted straight away. Next, I caught a very large dolphin. Boy, can these guys fight! It’s especially neat when they jump straight up out of the water trying to shake that hook loose. I was too late in asking Claudia to reel in the other line and the 2nd time he crossed over it he cut it and I lost the lure (green Magnum) on the line he hadn’t bitten. I got him up to the boat and just held him there, admiring his blue, green and gold colors in the deep blue water, trying to figure out how to gaff him while still holding the rod. While trying to transfer rod to Claudia and gaff to me, the line broke and he swam away with a the feather jig lure still in his mouth. The fight was almost worth losing 2 lures, but the biggest disappointment was not having him in the freezer. An hour later I got another, bigger dolphin and this guy REALLY liked to leap out of the water. My 30 lb test didn’t hold long enough to get a gaff in him either and off he went with another feather jig. Enough is enough so I stripped off the 30 lb and put on new 40 lb line. Moments later I landed and released a barracuda (at least the line didn’t break). The next day when we arrived just offshore of Mayaguana the reel went screaming and this one turned out to be the dolphin mother-lode (I was using the larger, red/white Magnum like yours, Gary). I was making no ground on him at all so I just held on and pulled on the rod to try to wear him down. He did finally tire enough to start bringing him in. I swear, I’ve never had a fish this size on the other end of a line. I knew he was worn out when close to the boat he was lying on his side on the surface while I dragged him close in. With his last strength he jumped and shook out the lure. At least the line didn’t break and I kept the Magnum but I was worn out and am wondering if I’ll ever get to grill another Mahi Mahi.

Sure wish you both were here. I know we’d have landed ’em all.

David